Helichrysum (Helichrysum italicum) Floral Water
Helichrysum floral water represents the functional heart of the Rugiada formulation. Rich in phenolic compounds and aromatic molecules naturally present in the plant, it is widely used in dermocosmetics for its soothing, decongesting, and rebalancing properties. Several experimental studies have demonstrated antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and protective activity against superficial microcirculation, characteristics that are particularly interesting in formulations dedicated to the eye contour.
Main references
Sala A. et al. Antioxidant and Anti-inflammatory Properties of Helichrysum italicum. Molecules. 2023.
Ninčević T. et al. Helichrysum italicum: From Traditional Use to Modern Cosmetic Applications. Plants. 2024.
European Medicines Agency (EMA). Monograph on Helichrysum italicum.
Aloe Barbadensis
Aloe vera is one of the most studied topical ingredients for maintaining skin hydration and barrier function. The polysaccharides naturally present in the gel promote superficial re-epithelialization, improve hydration, and help reduce the sensation of irritation in the most delicate areas of the face.
Main references
Sánchez M. et al. Pharmacological Update Properties of Aloe. Molecules. 2020.
Surjushe A., Vasani R., Saple DG. Aloe vera: A Short Review. Indian Journal of Dermatology. 2008.
Hekmatpou D. et al. The Effect of Aloe vera Clinical Interventions on Wound Healing and Skin Repair. Iranian Journal of Medical Sciences. 2019.
Sodium Hyaluronate (Hyaluronic Acid)
Hyaluronic acid is considered one of the cosmetic active ingredients with the highest level of scientific evidence. Numerous clinical studies show that topical application improves hydration, elasticity, smoothness, and the appearance of fine lines, making it particularly suitable for the thin areas around the eyes and lips.
Main references
Bravo B. et al. Benefits of Topical Hyaluronic Acid for Skin Quality and Signs of Skin Aging. Dermatologic Therapy. 2022.
Papakonstantinou E. et al. Hyaluronic Acid: A Key Molecule in Skin Aging. Dermato-Endocrinology.
Bukhari SNA. et al. Hyaluronic Acid, A Promising Skin Rejuvenating Biomedicine. Polymers. 2018.
Rosehip Oil
Rosehip oil is naturally rich in essential fatty acids, carotenoids, and phytosterols. Clinical studies have shown an improvement in skin elasticity, radiance, and the appearance of photoexposed skin, as well as support for barrier function.
Main references
Phetcharat L. et al. The Effectiveness of Standardized Rose Hip Powder on Skin Aging. Clinical Interventions in Aging.
Lin TK., Zhong L., Santiago JL. Anti-inflammatory and Skin Barrier Repair Effects of Plant Oils. International Journal of Molecular Sciences. 2018.
Jojoba Oil
Jojoba oil has a composition very similar to the physiological lipids of human sebum. It improves barrier function, promotes the absorption of lipophilic active ingredients, and helps keep the skin soft without clogging pores.
Main references
Habashy RR. et al. Jojoba Oil: An Updated Comprehensive Review on Chemistry, Pharmaceutical Uses and Toxicity. Polymers. 2024.
Lin TK. et al. Plant Oils in Dermatology. International Journal of Molecular Sciences. 2018.
Shea Butter
Shea Butter is rich in fatty acids and phytosterols with emollient activity. Evidence shows a significant reduction in transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and an improvement in skin barrier function.
Main references
Vermaak I. et al. Shea Butter Properties and Cosmetic Applications. Journal of Oleo Science.
Lodén M. Role of Emollients and Moisturizers in the Treatment of Dry Skin. American Journal of Clinical Dermatology.
Tetrahydrocurcuminoids (Curcuma longa)
Tetrahydrocurcuminoids are highly stable metabolites of curcumin. Recent clinical studies have shown an improvement in skin radiance, complexion uniformity, and protection against UV-induced oxidative stress.
Main references
Draelos ZD. et al. Topical Tetrahydrocurcuminoids Improve Skin Tone and Photoaging. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology. 2022.
Vollono L. et al. Curcumin and Skin: From Inflammatory Diseases to Photoaging. Nutrients. 2024.
Calendula (Calendula officinalis)
Calendula is one of the medicinal plants with the longest tradition of use in dermatology. Standardized extracts show soothing, emollient, and protective properties for sensitive and irritated skin.
Main references
European Medicines Agency. Community Herbal Monograph on Calendula officinalis.
Preethi KC. et al. Calendula officinalis and Wound Healing Activity. Basic & Clinical Pharmacology.
Mallow (Malva sylvestris)
Mallow contains mucilage, flavonoids, and polysaccharides that form a protective film on the skin surface. Topical use is documented mainly in formulations intended for sensitive and easily irritated skin.
Main references
European Medicines Agency. Monograph on Malva sylvestris.
Pirbalouti AG. et al. Medicinal Properties of Malva sylvestris. Journal of HerbMed Pharmacology.
Arnica montana
Arnica is traditionally used in topical preparations for skin subjected to mechanical stress. Standardized extracts show soothing, decongesting, and rebalancing activity on the superficial microcirculation.
Main references
Widrig R. et al. Arnica montana in Topical Therapy. Rheumatology International.
European Medicines Agency. Monograph on Arnica montana.
St. John's Wort (Hypericum perforatum)
St. John's Wort contains hyperforin and flavonoids with soothing, antioxidant, and skin barrier maintenance properties. Topical use is widely documented in phytotherapeutic literature.
Main references
Wölfle U. et al. Topical Application of Hypericum perforatum in Dermatology. Planta Medica.
European Medicines Agency. Community Herbal Monograph on Hypericum perforatum.
Green Tea Extract (Camellia sinensis)
Green tea polyphenols, particularly epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG), are among the most studied topical antioxidants. Numerous pieces of evidence demonstrate protection against oxidative stress, photoaging, and collagen degradation.
Main references
Katiyar SK. Green Tea Prevents UV-Induced Skin Damage. Archives of Dermatology.
Nichols JA., Katiyar SK. Skin Photoprotection by Natural Polyphenols. Frontiers in Oncology.
Saeedi M. et al. Green Tea and Skin Health: A Systematic Review. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology. 2023.
Guidelines and Scientific Reference Documents
Regulation (EC) No. 1223/2009 on cosmetic products.
Regulation (EU) 2023/1545 on fragrance allergens in cosmetic products.
Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS). Opinions on Cosmetic Ingredients.
European Medicines Agency (EMA). Official monographs on medicinal plants.
European Scientific Cooperative on Phytotherapy (ESCOP). Phytotherapeutic monographs.
International Journal of Cosmetic Science. Guidelines on the efficacy assessment of functional cosmetics.
Scientific Considerations
Rugiada is a formulation developed specifically for the eye and lip contour, two areas characterized by reduced skin thickness, fewer sebaceous glands, and greater susceptibility to dehydration and oxidative stress. The decision to eliminate essential oils and intense fragrances makes the formula particularly respectful of the physiological sensitivity of the periocular area.
The combination of Helichrysum floral water, Aloe vera, sodium hyaluronate, Rosehip, jojoba, and shea butter helps maintain hydration and skin barrier function, while extracts of calendula, mallow, arnica, and St. John's Wort promote comfort and well-being for delicate skin. Tetrahydrocurcuminoids derived from Curcuma longa and green tea polyphenols provide effective antioxidant protection, helping to counteract the effects of oxidative stress and photoaging.
Overall, the available scientific literature supports the topical use of the formulation's main ingredients in promoting more hydrated, elastic, radiant, and visibly smoother skin, with particular attention to the needs of the periocular and perilabial areas.